Instead of Stripping Chrome Parts

[Bob S]

I've used brake fluid to soak overnight in the garage. Next day rinsed it under hot water then gave it a soapy bath and a scrub with a toothbrush and tooth paste...
it took off 95% of the old paint. After a good rinsing, I sanded the body again, and primed it up for it's new coat!

[Chuck M]

Resurrecting this old thread...

What about stripping enamel from an old model?

Simple Green doesn't work.

I've heard that DOT-3 brake fluid works but haven't tried it, have any of you?

[Bill L2]

I purchased some super clean today from auto zone. Placed the chromed parts in a plastic container and filled with about a half a cup of super clean. Removed the chrome from the parts in about 15 minutes! One part , a large bumper is being stubborn so I will let it sit overnight.

[Bob S]

I would agree with Ryan that Simple Green is probably the answer if you want a non-toxic soaker. I've never tried it...I've been using Liquid Plumr,
which is probably the MOST toxic of everything that was mentioned. I used an empty glass salsa jar and filled it 3/4 full.
I've used the same jar for over 2 years now (and many strip jobs), and it seems just as potent as the day I poured it from it's original container.
It works for me -- I'm just very careful to put the lid on tight while it's stripping, and again when I'm finished with it, and keep it put safely away when not in use- because I have a cat that likes to help.

[Bill L2]

I want to say that I have used Simple Green. It is advertised as an environmentally friendly, non-toxic, and biodegradable cleaner.

The last time I did use it I did have to use a toothbrush to remove some small areas or a little film that was left on the parts after just soaking them. It was different between the different plastics on how fast or much came off. I think it was old AMT and newer Testors. This was like two years ago so.

This was discussed on Modeling Madness in the last week, here are some results ran by Chris.

Ran a test using 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, Bleach and Simple Green. Dropped some chromed tree bits from Revell, enamel, acrylic and metalizered (sp?) parts in. Left the parts in overnite and stirred them around a few times. The bleach did eventually remove most of the chrome but had virtually no effect on the paints. The Simple Green loosened the chrome plating and most came off with a little scrubbing from a tooth brush. Not much effect on the paints. The IA removed the enamel, metalizer but not much effect on the chrome. All three took a long time and none of them really removed everything. The Simple Green has the benefit of being Non-Toxic unlike the bleach and IA, doesn't have a strong odor either. I think it's time to try Purple Power and/or Super Clean.

Just to update stripping chrome and paint; Bought a bottle of Super Clean from my local AutoZone yesterday and dropped the same painted and chrome assortment in. The chrome comes off within minutes, stripped it off a Revell chrome sprue in 10 minutes, 15 tops. Surprisingly enough it didn't have the same effect on paint. Left it in the bath while at work today and will see what happened tonight. Main ingredient in Super Clean listed as sodium hydroxide. I think that's what was in Strip-A-Kit and Easy Off. Toxic so use with care.

Thanks Ryan. I tried bleach. It worked okay but it takes a long time and does not remove all of the chrome plating. I will head to the auto store and buy some super clean!

[Ryan K]

I want to say that I have used Simple Green. It is advertised as an environmentally friendly, non-toxic, and biodegradable cleaner.

The last time I did use it I did have to use a toothbrush to remove some small areas or a little film that was left on the parts after just soaking them. It was different between the different plastics on how fast or much came off. I think it was old AMT and newer Testors. This was like two years ago so.

This was discussed on Modeling Madness in the last week, here are some results ran by Chris.

Ran a test using 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, Bleach and Simple Green. Dropped some chromed tree bits from Revell, enamel, acrylic and metalizered (sp?) parts in. Left the parts in overnite and stirred them around a few times. The bleach did eventually remove most of the chrome but had virtually no effect on the paints. The Simple Green loosened the chrome plating and most came off with a little scrubbing from a tooth brush. Not much effect on the paints. The IA removed the enamel, metalizer but not much effect on the chrome. All three took a long time and none of them really removed everything. The Simple Green has the benefit of being Non-Toxic unlike the bleach and IA, doesn't have a strong odor either. I think it's time to try Purple Power and/or Super Clean.

Just to update stripping chrome and paint; Bought a bottle of Super Clean from my local AutoZone yesterday and dropped the same painted and chrome assortment in. The chrome comes off within minutes, stripped it off a Revell chrome sprue in 10 minutes, 15 tops. Surprisingly enough it didn't have the same effect on paint. Left it in the bath while at work today and will see what happened tonight. Main ingredient in Super Clean listed as sodium hydroxide. I think that's what was in Strip-A-Kit and Easy Off. Toxic so use with care.

[Bill L2]

We strip chrome because we have to eliminate a mold line --- OR, the factory finish is too bright and toy-like, right?

If you're removing mold lines, this tip is not for you.  But for the circumstance where your kit chrome is just too bright, you may not have to go through
the process of stripping and painting up with Alclad:

Using Tamiya Light Gunmetal spray lacquer, tape the bright parts on a board, and give a very light spray, one time.  In my opinion, this gives a much more realistic look to these parts.

Try it for yourself - see what you think!

Bob if I do want to strip the chrome off of the plastic what should I use that is non toxic?

[Bob S]

Hey Ryan - Spray some paint right on your parts board and do a quick brush touch-up. Will unlikely be noticed.

[Ryan K]

How do you deal with the spot where the sprue gate was attached to the part an not covered by the chrome?

[Ronv]

Cool tip I'll have to try it.
RonV

[Bob S]

We strip chrome because we have to eliminate a mold line --- OR, the factory finish is too bright and toy-like, right?

If you're removing mold lines, this tip is not for you.  But for the circumstance where your kit chrome is just too bright, you may not have to go through
the process of stripping and painting up with Alclad:

Using Tamiya Light Gunmetal spray lacquer, tape the bright parts on a board, and give a very light spray, one time.  In my opinion, this gives a much more realistic look to these parts.

Try it for yourself - see what you think!