M110A2

[Philip G]

Link to finished model post

[Philip G]

Thanks, Boss.

I had a think on it last night, and I agree that a bolt is what I'm going to use. As I wrote previously, I do want the model to be removable. The bolt is the most practical solution.

Ciao!
Bolt

[Ryan K]

It is really turning out well.


Ideally to attach to the base a bolt through the hull would be an option. Depending on placement of the vehicle and display no one can see it.

In this case, I don't think you can prevent a upside down save but with some chalk blocks you don't need to keep the base level.

[Philip G]

The M110A2 is on a base that's made of foamcore. The foamcore will be captured by the frame. How can I securely and reversibly attach the model to the base? I'd like to use a screw or something, but then you'd be able to see it underneath the chassis of the vehicle. I suppose I could drill through the track, into a couple of the road wheels, but ... crippling anxiety.

If I was really clever, I would have substituted a few of the treads for Neodiddillicous magnets. I guess I'll do that when I build my next armor piece in 2050.

Open to ideas.

Thanks,
Bolt

[Philip G]

UPDATE: Getting there...
There are no pieces left in the box or on the Healing Bench. This thing has congealed into a singular mass. There's a lot of touch-up to do on the base, and a little on the M110 itself.


Here's the display case that my friend is making. Model will be in the top half, and a couple of reference books in the bottom half. Whole thing will be LED-lit.


I want to get a plaque engraved, but I don't know what all to have on it. Any recommendations on engraving in Durham?

WARNING: Long anecdote inbound.
You know the scene in Close Encounters where Roy Neary (Richard Dreyfus) is landscaping his living room in the guise of Devil's Tower? He voices his consternation in having the image in his head, but not recognizing what it is. "I know this! I know this shape!" OK, hang on to that.

I'm thinking about adding a flagpole on the base, with American and POW/MIA flags on it, as we have at the post. I want a tapered pole, like almost all flagpoles are. So, I'm looking around the shop at what I've got, and I come across a 5/16" wooden dowel. Eureka! So, being the resourceful clod that I am, I chucked it up in the drill press. I made a bearing block out of a piece of scrap 2x, and went to town. I started with sandpaper, but soon moved to a rasp to start getting the taper. For some 90 minutes, I'm filing and sanding and measuring and sanding and eyeballing and sanding and sanding and sanding. As my lungs fill with carbohydrate foam particulate, I start saying, aloud, "I know this! I know this shape!"


Ninety minutes later, I declare a cease to hostilities, and unchuck my modified tree carcass. I set the work on the bench, and I'm putting myself at risk for Tommy John surgery patting myself on the back, it comes to me. I DO know this shape!


It's a chopstick. I spent 90 minutes making a chopstick. I can probably get a box of 1,000 1/35-scale flagpoles at the Chinese market for $3.

The bitter part is that I really don't like the proportions of the finished piece. I decided to make another one that's more slender. This time I used a nylon #7 knitting needle, and I like its proportions much more.


End of tale of woe and intrigue.

[Philip G]

Model is in quarantine while the clear coat dries. I'll be in Chicago for a couple of days so I'll be able to keep my filthy cabbage-collectors off it. In the meantime, I'm going to start on the base.

I painted and weathered the tracks about as much as I'm going to. They were a lot more satisfying to paint than I had expected. I'll put them on before I do the weathering on the rest.

[Philip G]

I've been dividing my sporadically abundant free time between the M110 and a photo booth I'm cobbling together for the Legion's Valentine's Day dance tomorrow. At first, I thought I just had to provide a backdrop. Turns out they want a walk-in booth similar to what they used to have at the mall when we were young back in the 20th century. So far, I've got about $400 tied up in this little endeavor. It's done now, and I'm taking it to the Post later tonight.

I'm hoping to be able to spend Saturday afternoon with the model, doing the very last assembly and a little touch-up painting so I can get the clear on it. I should be in good shape to do (and restrain from over-do) the weathering on Sunday.

I'd like to bring the finished work, in the beautiful display case, to a meeting, but I'm planning on presenting it to the Post later this month. I'll put up photos, though.

[lgriffin]

Very nice work, Phil.

Lee Griffin

[Philip G]

I saw those when I was looking for the Verlinden barrel. I might get those if/when I decide to build another one for myself. I also have the AFV Club kit of the M548, which is the support vehicle that carries the ammo and balance of the gun crew. Diorama idea, I guess. I think someone makes resin 203mm rounds.

I'm at the "I just want it to be done!" stage with this one. Another member at the Post is a superior woodworker. He's making a display case for the model for permanent display at the Post. It will be lit, and have room for the printed TMs for the M110A2. I'll post photos of the whole shebang when it's done.

[Ryan K]

Thanks, Ryan. I'm kicking myself now for not painting the rubber on the road wheels before I put them on the trailing arms. They're not glued, but they're pretty much an interference-fit on the spindles. I'm certain that the spindles will snap if I try to get the wheels off.

I am congratulating myself for having enough sense to resist dropping another $100 (or more) on metal tracks.

I paint my wheels black on the sprue, than use a circle template to paint the inner parts. Remove and touch up as needed.

Most US modern vehicle don't benefit from metal tracks as they don't/shouldn't have sag in the track l, otherwise it falls off and the crew has a long day ahead of them. If you don't like the Italeri rubber band track and in general most don't. PSM has a resin set that is much cheaper and would probably work. https://www.perfect-scale.de/en/www--perfect-scale-de-4/M107---M110-Tracks.html

If you break the spindles, you can replace with a wire or rod and superglue.

[Philip G]

Thanks, Ryan. I'm kicking myself now for not painting the rubber on the road wheels before I put them on the trailing arms. They're not glued, but they're pretty much an interference-fit on the spindles. I'm certain that the spindles will snap if I try to get the wheels off.

I am congratulating myself for having enough sense to resist dropping another $100 (or more) on metal tracks.

[Ryan K]

Looking good. Since you are only doing light weathering then I don't think it matters when you add the tracks. If doing field conditions it is easier to mud up the hull without the tracks then with them on, imho. That said if you add them now, you can have less touching of the model which is helpful if using pigments.

[Philip G]

Greetings:

Here's the M110 that's currently occupying the Healing Bench. I've finished the NATO 3-color camo. I'll do the final assembly next, then some post-shading. Seal up with clear gloss before weathering. I don't know if I should put the tracks on before weathering or not. I'm planning on very light weathering. I want it to look like the one at our Post in Durham, when (if?) we clean it up and repaint it.

Ciao,
Philbert