Color question

[Ryan K]

I will try to call later today.

Thanks again.

[Spanky]

Ryan,I didn't get your call until late last night.I'll be working at Archer Saturday and Sunday.If you want to come by and get the paint this weekend.Let me know.
spanky

[NormSon]

Bill,
This is the circa 1959 or 60 Monogram Green Hornet "T" roadster. No relation to the comic book or TV show.
Sorry.
Norm

[Ryan K]

Seriously?  The Black Beauty?  I didn't know Monogram made that kit.  Send me a pic of the box top, or the kit if you've built it!!

Bill L.

No it was this one.
http://www.showrods.com/gallery_pages/green_hornet_mono1.html


If you want one for the Black Beauty.
http://www.modelingmadness.com/scotts/cars/pl5017preview.htm

HTH

[Bill L.]

Seriously?  The Black Beauty?  I didn't know Monogram made that kit.  Send me a pic of the box top, or the kit if you've built it!!

Bill L.

[Ryan K]

Norm,

Thanks for the info.

[Ryan K]

Norm, You wrote:
"I used NATO green as a base coat on my Monogram Green Hornet"

Is that an F-18 or The Black Beauty from the TV shoe "The Green Hornet"

Bill L.

It was a VMFA-121 Green Hornet.


Just kidding... it was a car.

[Bill L.]

Norm, You wrote:
"I used NATO green as a base coat on my Monogram Green Hornet"

Is that an F-18 or The Black Beauty from the TV shoe "The Green Hornet"

Bill L.

[NormSon]

Regarding the base coat for the blue, my WRX is silver under the blue.
Norm

[NormSon]

Ryan,
Here are some more race/rally car notes:
Front brakes are ALWAYS the biggest. Weight transfer moves to the front under braking, putting the most pressure on the front wheels, allowing them to do most (about 70 to 80%, usually) of the braking. On our front wheel drive race cars, the rear brakes were just along for the ride, never wore out rear pads, just changed them for routine. Biggest problem was locking rear brakes, flat spotting tires. Makes them run really bumpy!
The Subaru's had two basic setups, one for pavement and one for gravel & dirt. The pavement cars were much lower and had gigantic brakes, especially on the front. These were 6-pistons with water cooling. They also often had black plastic "whiskers" at the bottom of the front air dam. They used big wide lightly grooved tires for in the dry, or heavily grooved for the rain. It's very common to see chalked notes on the sidewalls (RF, LF, RR, LR, sometimes a tire pressure, diameter, or circumference, Set 1, etc.).
The other set-up sat about 3" higher (ground clearance for jumps and bumps), and had big mud guards behind each wheel. Real off-road vehicles, they also used very agressive heavily lugged tires.
The Tamiya interior notes are correct. Blue (same as outside color) roll cage, roof, and floor, black interior panels. It's quite common to have a simple smooth aluminum plate for the drivers feet, right behind the pedals. Easy to clean, no bumps or edges to catch the drivers feet, because it's out of the drivers view the aluminum won't refect light into the drivers vision, and helps brighten the drivers floor if it has to be worked on around the pedals.
The roll cage is very prominent in these cars, and very structural. I would play with using brass rod (it will make the nicest bends) or plastic rod (harder to get smooth bends), and solder or super glue it all together.

Regarding the wheel wells, close 'em up and paint them black. The brakes should hide everything inside of the wheels, and you don't want the light to shine through.

Google Subaru "Drive" magazine, and check out their "Performance" section. Not many interior shots, but lots of shots from past years in their archives. Lots of good shots if you want to do some weathering, as these cars can get VERY dirty.

[Ryan K]

Hey Ryan,how soon do you need the paint?If you want you can come by Woodys
in Youngsville as I'll be bagging stickers in the evening.919-526-8153
spanky

Don't need it super soon but I may be able to get away for awhile tonight. I will call later if I can.

Thanks again for the paint.

[Spanky]

Hey Ryan,how soon do you need the paint?If you want you can come by Woodys
in Youngsville as I'll be bagging stickers in the evening.919-526-8153
spanky

[Ryan K]

Norm,

Thanks for the help. I know Race cars can change a lot of things between races even during the season, I think I am going to go by the KISS model for now. The tires where blocked off so you can't see through, so I have rebuilt the inner rim. Do you have any info or guess to why the brake disc would be different sizes and which would go where. I saw a diecast model that had the large discs on the front and the smaller discs on the rear. Does that make sense for that car? For visual looks I was thinking of using red for the calipers, does that make sense to have different size discs with red calipers? My guess is it all depends on the course but you wouldn't need the brake set up for Bristol if racing at Daytona. I just don't want to have something like Bristol discs and Daytona calipers if you know what I mean.

Other than painting, I think I only have to or plan to build the roll cage or after studying something close cause that is a prominent feature in my mind and block off the wheel wells since you can see through them and it is a pain to sand in that area.

As to the interior, Tamiya says the doors are black but the rollcage and other items are blue does that seems correct? They also went with flat aluminum for the foot petal area and black for the passenger.
http://www.1999.co.jp/itbig02/10020226z3.jpg

Thanks again for the help.

[NormSon]

Regarding the base coat; I would try 3 things, 1) flat white or very light grey, gold, and silver. If you have a flat blue that is close in shade, that would be a good one to try, also. I used NATO green as a base coat on my Monogram Green Hornet, under Testors metalic green, and it looks great. The dark green base coat makes the final gloss coat much richer and deeper in color.
The spray can doesn't indicate that it requires a metalic base, but I'm sure that it is transparent enough that whatever is under it will make a difference. PLEASE, do not paint your model without testing the colors on a scrap first.

Regarding the wheels, they are painted completely gold. Rims, spokes, and inner rim. Easy to touch up dings and dents that way on the real thing.

On most of the Subaru cars that I've seen, the calipers are gold, too, but this can depend on the specific rally you are modeling the car to. As in race cars, the chassis setup on the rally cars will change according to track condiitons, and this includes brake setups. Some tracks require more braking than others, and different calipers will be different colors according to the manufacturer. I've seen gold, silver, black, and red as common factory colors.

Regarding the interior, it is all the same color as the outside. There will be black carbon fibre used a lot for what few panels there are, as well as the seats and dash, and a few polished aluminum components. NO CHROME INSIDE! The Tamiya and Hasegawa kits are really good guides.

For really rough tracks that require skid plates, there are large aluminum plates put on the bottom to protect the engine and gear boxes.

The exhaust is all stainless steel, but due to the heat, it will turn a dark brown color. The only part that would remain close to silver will be at the very back end where it stays the coolest and might get polished.

Just like aircraft and specific times in their histories, you can go nuts trying to get a competition car just right. We would make changes (we usually tried for three for every race weekend) every time the car raced, as well as changes over a weekend. Even stuff like sponsor stickers, tire markings, and brake and driver cooling ducts can make you crazy.

Regarding a web site, Subaru has one, but I'll have to try to find out what exactly it is called. I think "Drive", or something like that. I know that they have lots of photos, not sure how available on the web site.

[Ryan K]

Ryan,I got a can of that Tamiya paint.If you want it you can have it.I ain't gonna use it.
spanky

Spanky,

Thanks that would be great.


What about an base coat? I have read of guys using silver or gold as a base coat to make it pop.