http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/M48/m48-construction.html
HTH
My all-time favorite tank, followed by the Tiger I.
Bill L.
It does have some very nice lines.
FYI on the Tamiya and Monogram
http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/M48%20Comparison/M48_comparison.html
Also some books you might like:
Praying for Slack: A Marine Corps Tank Commander in Vietnam
http://www.amazon.com/Praying-Slack-Marine-Corps-Commander/dp/B001PIHU4A/ref=pd_sim_b_1
and
MARINE CORPS TANK BATTLES IN VIETNAM
http://www.amazon.com/MARINE-CORPS-TANK-BATTLES-VIETNAM/dp/1932033661/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1305853882&sr=8-2
Both are great books.
FYI, Paul has finished the kit and update the article.
Just saw a note on Z-5 that somebody had measured the turret on the real tank, and Tamiya's is actually correct. No need to put a shim under the turret part.
Ben
That is what they are saying.....http://www.zone-five.net/showpost.php?p=159032&postcount=1
From Ghostdog93:
1. Fill the motorization slots and holes on the model.
2. Lower the suspension. I had a explanation on exactly how to do this, but it is covered quite well in the build mentioned above.
3. Turret height should be increased by approx 1.5mm. This can be done by adding a sheet styrene shim, which can then be final sanded to the turret's shape. The build article shows another way to tackle this.
4. Add casting numbers to the rear hull, turret top and engine access doors.
5. Replace the fender stays with PE items or scratch built versions, made from thin sheet styrene.
6. Three oval holes should be added to the drive sprockets at the 12, 4 and 8 o'clock positions. These are not molded on the Tamiya kit pieces. Check pics #27 and #28 in the build article for shape and location.
7. Glue the gun mantlet in place and fill the resultant gap with putty to represent the canvas cover. You can also replace the molded on mantlet clips with pieces of styrene strip and small diameter rod. The build article shows another way to fix this area.
8. If you're going to display it open, shave off loader's hatch internal handle and latch mechanism. The latch and handle can be replaced with plastic strip, rod and tube.
9. Replace the molded on tie downs on the turret with scratchbuilt ones made from brass rod or copper wire.
10. Use copper wire or brass rod to add 3 lifting lugs to the commander's cupola. These are located at the 12, 4, and 8 o'clock positions.
11. To improve the kit stowage basket, it can be scratched from brass rod or thin steel wire.
12. Thin out the headlight guards. The kit pieces are far too thick for the scale.
13. Replace the kit tracks with AFV Club individual track links. The steps needed to strengthen and correct the drive sprockets are detailed in the build article.
14. Replace the hull stowage bin handles with plastic or brass pieces.
15. Add cast texture to the turret and hull. Mr. Surfacer works well, as does plain old liquid cement and Squadron Green putty.
Academy has a nice M48A5 which is a nice hull if you want to do a little back date bashing of the 2 kits. Most of the obvious upgrades are to the main gun upgrade to a 105, commander's hatch and sighting. I can bring it to the next club meeting if anyone wants to compare.