AMT 1/32 1961 Ranchero

Started by Ronv, Tue 04/12/16 08:20 PM

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Ryan K

I would strip and repaint. That's what I plan to do but I am also painting it white so that works better for me.

Bob has a little how to here:
http://www.old.ipmseaglesquadron.org/restored_forum/index.php?topic=1581.0


Bob S

For small spots in chrome, usually you can get away with a brush touch-up after trimming or sanding the area smooth. I've had good luck with Tamiya Flat Aluminum acrylic for just this purpose. Not perfect, but it blends in quite well!

Ronv

So initial sanding of the body is complete with 3000 grit sandpaper (all they had at the auto parts store). I applied a coat of Tamiya White fine surface primer inside and out. I'll inspect it tomorrow to see if any additional sanding is needed. I also sanded and primed the interior (1 piece section!), and primed the chassis and tires.

Bob, what do you do for the chrome pieces that will have a bare spot where you remove them from the sprue? Strip and repaint or touch up with what??

Thanks
RonV

Ronv

Step 1  Parts have been washed.

Off to the store to find 3200 grit sandpaper.

RonV

Ronv

Thanks Bob,

Thats quite the method! Thanks for laying it in such detail. I will give it a try.

RonV

Bob S

#2
Hey Ron - After washing everything thoroughly, I use Tamiya Fine Surface primer for the body, and Krylon primer for everything else. Tamiya's super high quality primer for the body really does make a difference in the final paint stage. After priming the body, I will wet-sand the primer coat with 3200 grit abrasive. This step removes any imperfections from painting outdoors.

I like to start with the body for two reasons: 1) having a nicely painted body gives me the extra incentive not to cut corners during the rest of the build,
and 2) the longer I can allow the lacquer paint to dry, the harder the finish, which makes polishing much easier later. After the primer has had a half-hour or so to dry, I start laying down the color coats in 2-3 light layers, again wet-sanding w/ 3200 grit between those light coats. After another half-hour, I lay down 2 wet coats of color, and one wet coat of clear. (NO MORE sanding or polishing for SEVERAL DAYS after the wet coats) So, I bring the body back indoors after I have plenty of paint coats, sit it on top of the fridge, and forget about it for a few days while it's up there gassing out.

Next, I tape all the sprues onto cardboard sheets, carry them outside and give them a good coat of Krylon primer (dries in 10 minutes)--go out & get them, flip them over and prime the other side.

Then I can bring everything in, separate the parts from the sprues, clean & sand as needed, and arrange all parts of like-colors onto boards together for their color coats.

At this point, the rest of the work can be done at my bench, no matter the temperature or conditions outside. I can now concentrate on super details under bright work lights such as engine components, wiring, bare metal foil, decal work, etc...which usually takes about 3 solid days of work @ 8 hours a day.

After a few days, I can be confident the lacquer on the body is hard enough to stand a polishing, so I whip out the 3200 and start wet-sanding the color coats as needed (which is usually pretty much the whole body) This step removes a good bit of the residue color so I don't have to go thru 3 t-shirts to polish. (I will still expect some color transfer on the rag-this is normal) Next I begin the compounding process with Meguiar's Scratch-X and a clean cotton t-shirt rag, using only a small amount of compound and a rotating motion w/ my finger. When I see a clear, glossy finish emerge under my finger, I know it's time to move to a clean portion of the rag and continue onto the next area of the body-----once satisfied with the gloss of the body, I then install Bare Metal Foil if needed, and all window glass.

Then I go back to glue-fixing subassemblies and prepping the tires & wheels. This is also a good time to check ride height w/ chassis and wheels in place, and make the adjustments.

Final steps are side view mirrors, antennas, wipers --- all those frail pieces that seem to vanish if installed too early.

Hope this helps!

Ronv

Hey Bob,
I picked up the AMT 1/32 1961 Ranchero from the IPMS Reviewer Corps. What is your process again for doing car models?

Start with the body and doing some fine polishing on the plastic itself?
Tamiya primer and fine polish?
Paint and let dry for a couple of days?
Fine polish the painted surface?

In the mean time work on the interior while the exterior is drying?

thanks
RonV