Club build - Tamiya M41

Started by Ryan K, Wed 04/22/15 01:32 PM

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JonE

Interesting top view of an actual M-41. I am opening the loaders hatch and adding an additional .30 pintel and moving the pintel for the .50 to the right of the TC.

Ryan K

Here is what I used and trying to recreate.




JonE

Looks really good Ryan. Where are you getting your info for the front storage box? I have seen them straight up and down and angled on builds but can't get a good shot of a real vehicle.

Bill L2

Looks great Ryan. I plan on starting mine today.

Ryan K

#11
Moving along.....

Hull welds applied


Added some strengthening straps on one side using 0.020" plastic rods from evergreen.


A little preview of the hull together


Ryan K

Good info Norm. Here is an example that matches the kit. http://data.primeportal.net/tanks/bill_spidle/m41/images/m41_31_of_58.jpg

I decided to work on the hull welds. I used the AFV Club M41A3 kit hull as a guide for the weld lines. http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/afvclub/images/afv35041_lhull.jpg

The center weld wraps all the way around. http://data.primeportal.net/tanks/bill_spidle/m41/images/m41_30_of_58.jpg



Working with Norm, I think the Archer arc weld beads looks better or closer then the perfect weld set. I had picked up set 88006 which is a hodgepodge of sizes.
http://www.archertransfers.com/AR88006.html

I have the pieces trimmed out, the set gives you 6 lines of each sizes and this used 2 and 1/4 lines of the 0.25 size. I plan to use mostly 0.3 and some 0.4 on the turret. Hope to apply them all to the hull tonight.


I used my 3.5mm punch for the discs and 0.6mm punch for the bolts.



NormSon

Note regarding the idler; they were built both with the slotted idler and with a wheel with a tire. This is noted in the Squadron Walkaround. Kit has the wheel with the tire. But the slotted wheel sure looks spiffy.

Ryan K

@Steve, not sure on the M41 but some tanks the track direction is not important. As long as they are the same direction most people will gloss right over it plus there is good chance at least one time Pvt Knucklehead and crew did put them on the wrong direction.

@Norm, good find on price, not sure of the detail but probable better then the kit tracks.

My shapeways products showed up Friday. Oh yeah!

Here is the new idler wheel next to the kit. If you order idler make sure you order two. That is price for one.



Blocking in the sprocket hole. I used .030 sheet styrene.  I did in in two parts to get the ridge detail and used a 0.6mm punch for the bolt. Not the best but under paint and sprocket it will provide the illusion I am looking for.






Up next is paint the driver station so I can install the glass and do a big mask and not a bunch of little ones. That is after I find the correct/close green paint. Also welds on the turret.

NormSon

Squadron has Trumpeter tracks on sale for under $10, sale ends tonight.

Herk

Bill,
I have decided to try the AFV tracks (my first effort with single link).  Mine were about $15 online.  They are the individual links with the rubber insert as a separate section.  The feel like a soft plastic - I have been able to assemble in sections of 10 links each by using a small set of needle nose pliers.

There is a fair amount of flash, but I don't recommend trying to remove it prior to assembly - where it is located, you run a very good risk of cutting off the assembly pins for the link.

Currently I have between 6 - 8 links that are either malformed (missing part of the link) or an outer section bent.  The bent ones may be able to be corrected with gentle bending in the opposite direction.

I am currently painting mine steel and then applying the rubber pads.

If you looked at the early kit model I brought to the meeting on Sunday, the kit tracks (treads) while being one piece have good detail, go together well (the attachment pins can be melted with a hot knife or screwdriver carefully and do not show) and will present a good look on the vehicle.

Best of luch with which ever direction you go.

Regards,
Steve

PS - Make sure you refer to the box art and pics from Ryan so that you get the tracks on in the proper direction - my first assembly had them on backwards - rather embarrassing.

Ryan K

I think they are better. Better detail, pads are separated for easier painting. The Afv tracks are plastic, the kit is rubber. You should be able to find under $20. They also have a rubber band version that is around $10. Should also be better then the kits if you want to make a change.

Bill L.

I have yet to build a tank, so I'm following along.

Were the AFV tracks that much better?  What did they cost? Are they rubber as opposed to the kit plastic ones? or are the kit tracks also rubber?  No clue here.  ;)

Bill L.

Ryan K

Quote from: Lee_K on Wed 04/22/15 05:43 PM
Hey!  Is that a Grand Phoenix FJ-4B Fury I see in the background of those workbench shots?

Oh wait -- no.  Didn't think so....

:(

Lee_K

Hey!  Is that a Grand Phoenix FJ-4B Fury I see in the background of those workbench shots?

Oh wait -- no.  Didn't think so....

Ryan K

#1
I am hoping to finish mine as a 2nd Recon, 10th Cav, 7th Inf Div tank. I am going with the tank behind this one as that matches the kit a little easier.


I have the AFV tracks assembled for painting then will add the pads.  Have the kit tracks as a comparison. Currently at 74 links per side. I have 12 links left over (8 are good, 4 where bent) I did these in sections of tens and two in 14 link sections. It broke up the task and went pretty fast. I only removed the flash that was in the way of clicking the links together. I will clean up the rest before painting.


I have drilled out a number of vision ports in the cupola and removed the plastic for the periscopes. I will replace that plastic with clear resin from the Loon set.

The .50 cal post has had 3 locations, right side of the cupola, left side of the cupola (the kit location) and the left side of cupola rear.

You can see option 1 and 3 here


Option 2 as provided in the kit


I have removed the raised area around the loaders hatch and .50 cal post.


I was going to putty the welds and even made I tool for it but the taping became a mess for me so I am going to try the Archer weld set (will update with which set later when I have that info)


M41 have 3 types/position of the aux exhaust. None as given in the kit, piped out to right and rear and piped out left and front (where the pioneer tools are located).
I decided to drilled out the aux exhaust hole.


What I did to remove was to add tape to know my limits mainly underneath. I drilled 3 small holes in the front all the way through.

Then flipped it over and drilled three holes straight up but only going a little bit not all the way through.

I used an X-cato to play connect the dots and remove the center piece and trim the sides. Also used a small metal file to remove some more plastic.

I have trimmed it up some more but basically you have this at the end.


All references photos came from links post in the Tips thread link